The first time I laid eyes on Argentina, I knew it was a place I had to visit.

We had taken a tour boat across the beautiful Chilean lake Todos los Santos (2015). From the boat I could see enticing glacier covered mountain tops in the distance and I learned that if we continued our travels in that direction by dirt road and more boats, we’d eventually (13 hours later) find our way into Bariloche, Argentina. Based on these enticing views, Argentina moved to the top of my list for our next venture into South America.

Six years later we were finalizing our plans to travel to Antarctica (by way of Argentina) to see a total solar eclipse. True to form, I orchestrated an epic “while we’re there” situation.

Our Antarctica trip quickly became a month-long tour of Argentina.

The departure point for Antarctica is at the very southern tip of Argentina (Ushuaia)…which isn’t too far away from Patagonia….and since we were flying through Buenos Aires anyhow, we might as spend some time there…and from there it wouldn’t be too much to hop up to see Iguazu Falls…and I love the Andes Mountains, so let’s just do a quick side trip to Mendoza.

While the act of planning a trip is often half the fun, it can be nice to let someone else take care of the details.

Since this was our first major international trip since the start of COVID, we wanted the extra assurance of travel experts that could sort the logistics of a rapidly changing travel landscape. Plus, if I’m being honest, I’m often a fan of just showing up in the hotel lobby and being whisked away on a grand adventure.

We love booking our more adventurous trips through a great woman-owned Canadian company called BikeHike Adventures. We’ve traveled with them across much of Ecuador and Bolivia, and they built a custom trip for us in Chile.

I knew BikeHike was perfect for pulling a custom Argentinian trip together that included hiking, camping, and biking in a myriad of landscapes and locations. They delivered a trip of a lifetime for us!

Between their great planning, near perfect weather, and some epic luck avoiding COVID and cancelled flights, our trip to Argentina started to scratch the wanderlust itch that had been plaguing us since we quit our jobs, mid-pandemic, with dreams of travel.

Anyone who loves hiking, backpacking or rock climbing has likely lusted after photos of Patagonia’s glacier covered mountains, towering cliff faces and rocky pinnacles, and turquoise lakes.

The geographic region known as Patagonia takes up most of southern tip of South America, split lengthwise by the (often disputed) border between Chile and Argentina. Just as no one really agrees where Patagonia starts and ends, they also don’t agree on which side (Chilean or Argentinian) is best. I can’t wait to go back and visit the Chilean side so I can form my own opinion!

Our initial Patagonian adventure was a hike through the Diablo River Valley to(ward) the Cagliero Glacier. This was a beautiful and challenging hike, made all the more demanding by the vertigo Glenn and I were experiencing awaiting the return of our “land legs” after spending over a week on rough seas visiting Antarctica. The landscape bobbed and weaved as we huffed and puffed our way up trail.

We eventually hit the section of the trail requiring us to climb the valley walls with the aid of metal steps and cables (known as “via ferrata”). This proved a little more challenging than we were up for (I gotta start doing pushups!) and after an hour we were only half-way through this section. We decided to turn back to the basecamp to enjoy some tea and cookies while the rest of the folks in our tour group marched on.

We spent the next three days hiking from campsite to campsite as we traversed over and through several river valleys. One of my favorite memories of this part of our trip was the sound of big chunks of ice calving off the nearby glaciers. It sounded like a freight train was roaring up the valley.

Our first day started out cloudy with a light misting of rain, which was followed by a torrential afternoon downpour that lasted all night. Our guide had mentioned that if the rain stopped we could venture to the edge of camp where there was a nice beach on the river with a pretty view.

We awoke the next morning to find the sun shining, so I decided to check out the view…which turned out to be a jaw-dropping vista of the famed pinnacle known as El Chaltén (a.k.a. Fitz Roy).

Day two of our hike wrapped us in bright blue skies and stunning scenery. I kept thinking it couldn’t get any better, only to get a little further along the trail and be stunned by the beauty that awaited us.

Before leaving the Patagonia region we took a day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier. This huge glacier — 3 miles (5 km) wide and 240 feet (74 meters) tall — is one of the most significant tourist attractions in the area, and rightfully so.

Although crowded with tourists, it was definitely worth a visit. I stood there for hours listening to the deep-throated rumble of cracking ice and standing vigil to witness big chunks calve off into the water. An Andean Condor soared overhead, which made the whole scene beyond picturesque.

Iguazú — or Iguaçu or Iguassu or any number of the countless other permutations of the spelling — is adapted from the indigenous Guarani or Tupi people’s phrase meaning “big water.” That’s an understatement!

This stunning series of waterfalls of the Iguazu River spans the border between Argentina and Brazil. Together, the 275 separate falls make up the largest waterfall system in the world. You can view the falls from either side of the border, each offering its own unique perspectives. Unfortunately, the Brazilian border was still closed to tourists due to COVID restrictions, so we were only able to experience the Argentinian side…which was beyond breathtaking.

We were lucky enough to have a guide who has worked at the falls for 32 years. He was a whiz at timing our hikes to miss the large tour groups that pulse through the park throughout the day. There were several times where we had the trails all to ourselves.

Visiting the falls is by far the main attraction in this hot, jungly part of Argentina. While there we were able to enjoy a few side trips, including a visit to an amazing backyard garden of a local family that is known for attracting hundreds of birds, especially hummingbirds (one of my passions).

We also enjoyed a side trip to Mbocay Falls, a jungle swimming hole that is a favorite of the locals. We passed through some suburban neighborhoods by bike, hiked with friendly and curious dogs, and were treated to some awesome food and relaxation.

This trip is offered by a newly-formed cooperative of local guides who were looking for a way to support each other during the devastating COVID lock-downs that killed the tourism industry here. Together they built a lovely place to receive guests and to offer alternative adventures beyond seeing the big waterfalls. We enjoyed the opportunity to get off the beaten path and experience local hospitality.

Early in the initial COVID lockdown I found myself binge-watching a myriad of shows about baking, pottery, etc. I immersed myself in shows about barbecue and became obsessed with learning about (and eventually trying) the different styles from around the U.S.A., as well as the world. Experiencing traditional Asado Argentino was at the top of my wish list!

I reached out to BikeHike Adventures and expressed an interest in visiting an Argentinian cattle ranch (known as an estancia) where I could “ride a horse with a gaucho and eat authentic barbecue,” just like I’d seen on television! “But,” I told them, “I don’t want an estancia where tourists were being bussed in for the experience.”

As always, BikeHike more than delivered. They found a small and intimate estancia high in the Andes Mountains outside of the city of Mendoza, famous for its wine making.

It was a perfect way to end our whirlwind trip! We spent our time relaxing in the stunning scenery while watching osprey hunt and herds of red deer traverse the valley walls. I went for several horseback riding excursions (complete with a gaucho guide, check) while Glenn enjoyed challenging himself with several high-altitude hikes.

My horse was named “Patria” which essentially means “homeland” because the blaze on his forehead looks like the outline of Argentina. I’m guessing the word shares an etymology with “patriot.” Patria was a sweet and strong horse. I raised a toast to him in gratitude for hauling my big butt up so many high altitude mountains so I could take in the amazing views.

The barbecue did not disappoint and I was able to experience Asado Argentino a la parrilla, or “on the grill,” in this breathtaking environment. An “asado” is the social event surrounding the barbeque and always involves several types of meat that come off the grill at different times over the course of the meal. The meats are never marinated, only seasoned heavily with salt (and some fresh lemon juice on the pork belly). We enjoyed beef ribs and fillet, pork belly (my favorite!), chorizo (mixed coarse-grained meat sausage, not to be confused with the spiced sausage of the same name) and blood-sausage (not my cup of tea in terms of texture).

By the time it was over I was stuffed beyond repair and my Argentinian barbecue dreams were satiated. Although…I still want to try Asado Argentino al asador, where the entire animal is hung on iron crosses (known as asadores) over/near the coals. I guess I just gotta go back!!

As many of you know, I’m always more interested in being in nature than urban environments.

I tend to think of visiting cities while traveling as a necessary evil…something I have to endure in order to logistically get to the more remote locales I love. In recent years I’ve found that booking a few city tours can help me appreciate what they have to offer. The love and passion that many guides have for their cities is contagious and inevitably gets me to adopt a better attitude about my time spent there.

We transited through Buenos Aires several times during our visit to Argentina and did several city tours while there including a bike tour (on which I tried my first…and last..mate drink. Blech!) and a walk through the colorful La Boca neighborhood. One of our favorite tour stops was the Recoleta Cemetery where walking among the tombs felt like passing through a bizarre and ornate mini-cityscape built for the dead.

We indulged in a scrumptious “high tea” at one of the fancy Buenos Aires hotels that now occupy several old mansions (known as palaces) built by Argentina’s elite of yesteryear.

On our way to catch our flight home we spent Christmas Day visiting Tigre, a town just to the north. Made up of hundreds of tiny islands comprising the Paraná River Delta, it was like a crazy mashup of Venice and the bayou. It was fun seeing families out enjoying their holiday together…and to be reminded that Christmas is a sunny summer holiday for half the world (something us northern hemisphere inhabitants can often be myopic about).

Even though we spent a full month traveling in Argentina, I can’t wait to go back. The landscapes, the people, the food…it was all amazing! If, like me, you didn’t get enough…I’ve included some more photos and videos below. Enjoy!

Video of some highlights of our trip across Argentina

(See this post for photos and videos of our time in Antarctica)

Hike up the Rio Diablo valley toward the Cagliero Glacier (Patagonia)

Three day hiking and camping trip through iconic portions of the Patagonia region

Perito Moreno Glacier (Patagonia)

Iguazu Falls

Mbocay Falls excursion (Puerto Iguazu)

Photos and video from the backyard hummingbird garden in Puerto Iguazu

Estancia visit outside of Mendoza

Buenos Aires

Boat tour of Tigre (north of Buenos Aires)